Tour code: SPLN-24

The Bootleggers of Lake Como

A Biking Tour along the quiet side of Como Lake

Explore the hidden and less-traveled side of Lake Como, with its rich history of smuggling routes and clandestine activities, add a unique and adventurous dimension to your holiday

There was a time, in the aftermath of the Second World War and spanning about 50 years, when the border between Italy and Switzerland saw the passage of individuals we might now refer to as mules.

These individuals were not trafficking drugs; rather, they were clandestinely transporting money and goods belonging to affluent families and entrepreneurs into Switzerland — a fiscal paradise with an impenetrable bank secrecy. Referred to as "spalloni," meaning big-shouldered men, they earned this nickname by bearing the weight of both illegal goods and the associated risks on their shoulders.

Today, with such activities long ceased, they have transformed into romanticized figures who were not only well-acquainted with their mountainous surroundings but also the keepers of secret paths linking Lombardy and Switzerland.

In the spirit of these spalloni, we invite you to join us on a biking tour along the clandestine and less-traveled roads encircling both sides of Lake Como—both the Italian and the Swiss. We have curated a cycling experience that embraces the lesser-known, spectacular, and tranquil routes, steering clear of the mass tourism that inundates the lake's shores from spring to autumn. However, to completely bypass the alluring towns along Lake Como would be a missed opportunity. Thus, we strike a balance by visiting some of the iconic locales that have gained international fame among the jet set: Bellagio, Varenna, and Como. These gems are adorned with charming streets, historic architecture, and waterfront promenades, each possessing a distinctive character and offering a blend of culture, history, and beauty.

Our journey combines the thrill of cycling along the secluded Spalloni routes with the excitement of exploring some of the most renowned luxury destinations. And fear not, we have no intentions of engaging in anything illegal—rest assured!

ITINERARY

Enthusiast
8,275m
379.2 km
6 rides
1 ARRIVAL DAY

Arrival at Milan airport (MXP) or Milan Bergamo, transfer to Bergamo, Hotel in city center. Accommodation, bike-fitting, and dinner  in our Bergamo finest Trattoria.

2 BERGAMO - VALSASSINA

62.6km | 1,519m | 1,019m | 3,30h

Departing from the urban charm of Bergamo, your journey takes you through the picturesque countryside, following an old railway line that has been repurposed into a scenic bike path. Winding its way through the landscape, the route meanders through ancient stone tunnels, remnants of a bygone era dating back to the early 1900s. What makes this experience particularly enchanting is the absence of motor traffic, allowing cyclists to immerse themselves in the tranquility of the surroundings and appreciate the historical allure of the reclaimed railway route. We leave the cycle path at San Giovanni Bianco; from here, the road begins to ascend, initially gradually winding through a dramatic canyon carved into the rock. Then, the road steepens for the last 7 kilometers of the climb, culminating at the Passo Culmine di San Pietro at an altitude of 1280 meters. From there onwards, it's a descent all the way to the Agriturismo.


Accommodation: Agriturismo

Meals: Breakfast | Dinner

3 VALSASSINA - COLICO OLGIASCA

63,3km | 1,210m | 1,731m | 3,45h

The day on the saddle  begins with ease as the road gently descends, leading us onto a pleasant and smooth cycle path that guides us effortlessly to the charming small town of Primaluna. Before embarking on the next leg of our adventure, we ensure we have ample water to stay refreshed.

The real challenge unfolds as we face the ascent of Passo Esine Lario. This mountain pass beckons with promises of both effort and reward. The road gracefully winds its way through the landscape, treating us to panoramic views of the Valsassina valley below. Reaching the summit of Passo Esine Lario is a triumph, standing at an elevation that grants us a commanding view of the stunning expanse of Lake Como unfolding below. The summit becomes a platform for a moment of rest, allowing us to savor the beauty of our surroundings before the thrilling descent that lies ahead down to Varenna. Once a quiet fishing village, Varenna has retained its tranquil charm, escaping the bustling crowds of more well-known tourist destinations. As we explore this hidden gem, you'll find no shortage of quaint bars, perfect for savoring a leisurely coffee or treating yourself to a delicious ice cream.Departing from Varenna, our route is a simple and picturesque journey along the old road that hugs the scenic shoreline of Lake Como. The road, steeped in history, guides us through a 25-kilometer stretch of flat terrain, allowing for a relaxed and enjoyable ride to out 3* star hotel for the night.


Accommodation: 3-star hotel

Meals: Breakfast | Dinner

4 COLICO OLGIASCA - SORICO

57,2km | 1,222m | 402m | 3,20h

Today route is heading north, after leaving our fancy hotel nestled between verdant green and blue water we arrive in Colico, at the top of the lake, where we will cycle along a stretch of bike path on the bank of the Adda River, right at the point where its waters, fed by the snow and glaciers of the surrounding Alps, flow into the lake. The colors between the icy waters and the surrounding greenery leave you speechless. We continue upstream along the river, on a smooth and enjoyable bike path winding through cultivated fields and in the middle of the glacial valley. We will reach Morbegno, a medieval city, an ancient commercial hub on the way to Switzerland. Morbegno is ideal for a break, to have a cappuccino in the central market square, and finally catch sight of the heights of the surrounding peaks. We resume our journey, cross the Adda, and pedal southwest to return to the lakeshore. Another 15 kilometers of flat terrain on secondary roads before reaching Gera Lario, where the 10 kilometers of steep ascent along the lake begin: every meter climbed will leave you stunned by the vastness of the water view. The well-deserved reward will be to arrive at the beautiful farmhouse for the night: you will rarely find a place from which you can embrace the entire lake with a single glance.


Accommodation: Agriturismo - Mountain Lodge

Meals: Breakfast | Dinner

5 SORICO - SAN FEDELE INTELVI

76,2km | 1,393m | 1,792m | 3,50h

Today marks the beginning of another thrilling descent as we bid farewell to the charming agriturismo, embarking on a 10-kilometer downhill journey that gracefully leads us back to the enchanting coast of Lake Como. The meticulously designed track runs alongside the lake for approximately 35 kilometers, immersing us in serene surroundings and charming lakeside villages that exude tranquility. The beauty of Lake Como unfolds before us, revealing its crystal-clear waters and the timeless allure of the surrounding landscapes.

At the 37-kilometer mark in Menaggio, our journey takes an even more picturesque turn as we encounter a delightful cycle lane that traces the coast from Lake Como to Lake Lugano. This scenic path, once a railway built at the beginning of the last century, played a pivotal role in establishing Como and its lake as a popular tourist destination, particularly among the Swiss. The route meanders to Porlezza, the last main town before the Swiss border. Nestled along the splendid shores of Lake Lugano, Porlezza invites us to take a pause for a coffee or gelato at Gelateria Visconti—one of the finest ice cream shops in the area.

Refreshed from our break, the route continues along the east coast of the lake, leading us to the final climb of the day—a challenging 8-kilometer ascent to Pellio Intelvi. As we conquer this climb, the panoramic views unfold, rewarding our efforts with sweeping vistas of the surrounding landscapes.

But before reaching our final destination, we have the opportunity to uncover the hidden little gem of Erbonne.

Erbonne was once a fairly isolated village; up until the 1960s, there was no road connecting the village to the Italian side. Inhabitants had to depend on Scudellate for all services, including churches, schools, and graveyards. Due to its remote location, Erbonne became a resting place for bootleggers. Smuggling activities were so intense that the Guardia di Finanza built a barracks to monitor the area. Today, this barracks has been transformed into a museum of contraband, preserving the history and stories of the region's smuggling past.


Accommodation: 3-star hotel

Meals: Breakfast | 

6 SAN FEDELE - SCUDELLATE

58.6km | 1,685m | 1,494m | 3,10h

Val Intelvi is indeed one of those places that appears to have experienced a brief encounter with tourism, leaving behind a tranquil and picturesque valley nestled between the mountains and lakes, serving as the boundary between Switzerland and Italy. The well-maintained and nearly traffic-free roads contribute to the serene ambiance of the region. These mountains, while now offering a peaceful landscape, were once the stage for intense illegal activities carried out by smugglers. With limited opportunities for regular employment, smuggling became a livelihood necessity for some.

Before bidding farewell to the valley, the route takes a climactic ascent to Sighignola at the Balcone d'Italia viewpoint. This 5.3-kilometer climb is rewarded with a breathtaking 360-degree panoramic view over Lake Lugano and the Swiss Alps. The stunning scenery from this vantage point leaves a lasting impression.

Descending back to Lanzo, the path meanders from the valley toward Lake Lugano, passing through the ancient and now abandoned border crossing of Arogno. Entering Swiss territory, the journey continues along the lake with well-marked cycle paths, eventually ascending towards the semi-abandoned hamlet of Scudellate. Despite its modest population of only 22 residents, Scudellate boasts several tourist facilities, drawing visitors with its enchanting appeal—secluded, surrounded by silence, and embraced by the beauty of woods and meadows.


Accommodation: Alpine Lodge

Meals: Breakfast 

7 SCUDELLATE - BELLAGIO

61,7km | 1,195m | 1,370m | 4,10h

The final day of our short break, tracing the routes of the Spalloni, begins with the bittersweet departure from the secluded haven of Scudellate, a remote and tranquil corner of the earth that one can't help but regret leaving.

The journey kicks off with a long descent, almost 18 kilometers, retracing the same route ridden the day before, leading us back to the enchanting shores of Lake Como.

It's a delightful 40-kilometer ride along the lake, offering marvelous and charming views of the serene blue waters on one side and the verdant cliffs of the mountains on the other. Venturing through the ancient villages, each populated for centuries by people engaged in hunting, fishing, farming, and, of course, smuggling, we witness a living history.

In Menaggio there is a short ferry boat transfer crossing the lake to the famous Bellagio. The little cruise becomes a perfect spot for capturing dramatic photographs. Once landed on the coast a last sightseeing climb to the Ghisallo and a visit to the Museum, onwards just ride back downhill to the town and the beauty of Lake Como bids us a fond farewell, leaving us with memories of a journey steeped in history, charm, and the captivating allure of the Italian lakeside.


Accommodation: 3-star hotel

Meals: Breakfast | Dinner

8 FAREWELL AND DEPARTURE DAY

Last Breakfast with a view to the marvellous sight in front of us: you will embrace all the mountain peaks, the green valleys and blue water which have been the backfround the our cycling journey.

Drop of the bikes and farewell to next time.


Arrival details

  • Airport City: Milano Mxp / Bergamo
  • Pick-up location: Bergamo
  • Pick-up time: 16:00

Departure details

  • Airport City: Milano Mxp / Bergamo
  • Drop-off location: Bellagio
  • Drop-off time: 10:00
The Classic climbs series
Your Journey on a map

TOUR ROUTE

Start: Bergamo

End: Bellagio

Services

Accommodation

2 nights at four-star; 2 nights at three-star, 3 Agriturismo/Mountain Lodge

All breakfasts; 4 dinners

8/7 days/nights

Your stay, part of the tale

Handpicked hotels

It is easy to get swept away by the allure of the Lago di Como, the region has been a favorite  tourist spot for decades, with its luxurious five-star lakeside hotels and fancy mansion. Our itineraries go deeper, avoiding the crowds and scoping out off-the-beaten-path places that allow travelers to fully immerse themselves in the beauty and culture of the region. Accommodations were carefully chosen to permit our travelers to discover a different side of Lago Como: both the small  hotels and the mountain lodges permit our guests to stay in stunning and hidden corners and enjoy breathing landscapes and good food.

Food

All breakfasts; 4 dinners - Picnic lunch on all stages

Immerse yourself in the region's culture

Eat like locals

While Lombardy is predominantly recognized for Milan, a global hub for finance and fashion, the region, in truth, has deep-rooted agricultural origins.

Northern Lombardy boasts some of the highest European mountains, shaping a distinctive mountain economy. In these rugged terrains, the culinary tradition aligns with the demands of mountain work—offering simple yet flavorful recipes with a high caloric content to fuel the demands of the challenging environment.

 One wonderful example are Pizzoccheri: a traditional flat buckwheat pasta cooked with potatoes, cabbage, and layered with cheese and garlic-infused butter. And what about Risotto and Polenta? Once working class food, nowadays a delicacy. Lombardy is also renowned for its cheeses, such as Gorgonzola and Taleggio, which find their way into many dishes. 

Indulging in rich dishes on our active trip is guilt-free, justified by the effort we put into every pedal stroke.

Our best picks for this tour

As we have one of the largest and best bike fleets in Italy, we are proud to give our guests the freedom to choose the bike that suits them best.

Pinarello F5 - 105 di2

Ride in Italy on an exclusive Italian bike
Scott Addict RC40

Scott Addict RC40

Light, fast, and ready to turn heads.

Scott Addict 30

Designed from the ground up with those longer days in mind.

Canyon Pathlite:on

Do it all E-Bike for leisure and exploration.
Things You Won't Miss
  • Varenna

    Varenna

    Postcard from Como lake
  • Bellagio, the jet set's retreat

    No, it's not in Las Vegas, but along Como lake!
  • A different side of Lago di Como

    Enjoy a less glamorous and quieter Como Lake
  • Ghisallo Cycling museum

    Ghisallo Cycling museum

    All about bikes and great cyclists in the history,
    in one spot

Ride Highlights:
Varenna

Among the most famous highlights along the eastern shore of Lake Como, Varenna is a quaint and charming village with narrow cobblestone streets through a picturesque labyrinth of pastel-colored houses, offering stunning views of the lake and surrounding mountains.

Tour highlights

Tour price

And inclusions

THIS TOUR IS AVAILABLE AS A GUIDED GROUP TOUR ON SELECTED DATES. it's also available as PRIVATE, SELF-GUIDED AND SUPPORTED ON ANY DATE DURING THE CYCLING SEASON.

Guided group tour

Guided group tour


This trip is available only as a self guided or supported tour. It can be organized as a private guided tour: contact us.
Self guided tour

Self guided tour

From € 1399

Anytime May to Sept


Inclusions & details

Accommodation
2 nights in 4-star hotel, 2 nights in 3-star, 3 nights in Agriturismo-Mountain Lodge
Meals
all breakfasts, 4 dinners
Support level
support level: detailed briefing, telephone assistance;
Not included
not included: flights tickets, extras in hotel, drinks during the dinner, city tax (if any), travel insurance, arrival and departure transfer, bike rental, luggage transport.
On request
bike rental, luggage transfer
Supported tour

Supported tour

From € 1899

Anytime May to Sept


Inclusions & details

Accommodation
2 nights in 4-star hotel, 2 nights in 3-star, 3 nights in Agriturismo-Mountain Lodge
Meals
all breakfasts, 5 dinners
Support level
detailed briefing and van assistance, luggage transportation;
Not included
not included: flights tickets, extras in hotel, drinks during the dinner, city tax (if any), travel insurance, arrival and departure transfer, bike rental
On request
bike rental, group transfer beginnig/end of the travel
Useful Information

Tips & Resources

Travel arrangements

Travelers on guided, self-guided, or supported trips have the option to independently reach Bergamo. Airport in Bergamo (often referred to as Milan Bergamo airport) is a hub well connected with several flights a day with major airports all over Europe/UK.

Milan Malpensa (Mxp) and Milano Linate Airports are also optimal choices for arrivals and departures. Both airports are well connected to Bergamo/Como with regional trains.

We can anyway arrange private transfers to/from beginning/end of the cycling travel.

The Self-Guided journey concludes in Bellagio. From Bellagio you can reach Como by daily ferries or bus transportation. Como is connected to Milano via regional trains and the journey takes 30 minutes.

Food & Drinks during stages

The Lago di Como  is among the major tourist destinations in North of Italy.

The hospitality of the people is renowned. Along the routes, you pass through lively small villages where it's easy to find a bar, whether for a coffee or a more complete lunch. Along the journey, there are plenty of opportunities to recharge batteries  in case of an emergency.

Necessary Gear

Our guests will get a pre tour info kit that gives useful suggestions on how to enjoy our trips in full. Here is a quick selection that might be useful at this stage.

  • We suggest renting a bike with us. But feel free to bring your own bike. Just consider bringing along a selection of model specific spare parts (ie. derailleur hangers). 

  • The hotels have a room for the bikes, and we will have a selection of tools to perform basic maintenance.

  • Bring along a wide selection of clothes, including some full arm jackets, rain coat, leg and arm warmers, overshoes: it's the Alps and the weather is never completely predictable.

Useful Information
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