Tour code: BTLGGS-25

Lake Como on the Mules' Paths

A Biking Tour Along Como Lake on the Old Bootleggers' Paths

Ride on the hidden and less-traveled side of Lake Como, exploring the old smugglers' routes and give your biking trip a unique and adventurous dimension.

There was a time, in the aftermath of the Second World War and spanning about 50 years, when the border between Italy and Switzerland saw the passage of individuals we might now refer to as mules.

These guys were not trafficking drugs; rather, they were clandestinely transporting money and goods belonging to affluent families and entrepreneurs into Switzerland — a fiscal paradise with an impenetrable bank secrecy. Referred to as "spalloni," meaning big-shouldered men, they earned this nickname by bearing the weight of both illegal goods and the associated risks on their shoulders.

Today, with such activities long ceased, they have transformed into romanticized figures who were not only well-acquainted with their mountainous surroundings but also the keepers of secret paths linking Lombardy and Switzerland.

In the spirit of the spalloni, we invite you to join us on a challenging biking tour along the clandestine and less-traveled roads encircling both sides of Lake Como—both the Italian and the Swiss. We have curated a cycling experience that embraces the lesser-known, spectacular, and tranquil routes, steering clear of the mass tourism that inundates the lake's shores from spring to autumn. However, to completely bypass the alluring towns along Lake Como would be a missed opportunity. Thus, we strike a balance by visiting some of the iconic locales that have gained international fame among the jet set: Bellagio, Varenna, and Como. These gems are adorned with charming streets, historic architecture, and waterfront promenades, each possessing a distinctive character and offering a blend of culture, history, and beauty.

Our journey combines the thrill of cycling along the secluded Spalloni routes with the excitement of exploring some of the most renowned luxury destinations. And fear not, we have no intentions of engaging in anything illegal—rest assured!

ITINERARY

Challenge
12,999m
514.2 km
7 rides
1 ARRIVAL DAY - WARM UP RIDE

Arrival in Bergamo and Hotel in city center. Accommodation, bike-fitting. Let’s test the bikes with a short ride in the outskirts of Bergamo. 40/45 kms riding the roads ridden at Giro d’Italia or Giro di Lombardia when the finish line is in town. Aftet the warm-up welcome dinner in Trattoria Ambrosio, one of the those special restaurant in town.

Accommodation: 4-star hotel

Meals: Breakfast | Dinner at Trattoria

2 BERGAMO - SERINA

71.6km | 1,839m | 1,319m | 4,30h

Our first day of intense riding looks like a captivating journey through the scenic landscapes and historical sites of Bergamo. The blend of urban charm, picturesque countryside, and the repurposed railway path offers a unique and enchanting experience for cyclists. The old railway line, now transformed into a bike path, not only provides a vehicle-free environment, winding its way through the landscape, the route meanders through ancient stone tunnels, remnants of a bygone era dating back to the early 1900s. The journey goes on through Val Taleggio, known for its famous creamy cheese production, gives a glimpse of what’s next on a cultural and gastronomic dimension to the ride. The verdant valley with alpine features, complete with cow bells and green meadows, paints a picturesque scene. The rolling road through woods and meadows, punctuated by some gentle climbs, promises a varied and dynamic cycling experience. The stop at an old Osteria for a well-deserved lunch further adds to the charm, providing an opportunity to refuel and appreciate the local cuisine. The final 9 km climb to Dossena, a remote small town with a history dating back to Roman times, adds a sense of adventure and discovery to your ride. The mention of ancient mines and iron excavation hints at the rich historical significance of the area. Overall, your first day sets the stage for an exciting and challenging ride, blending natural beauty, historical allure, and the thrill of conquering climbs. It's a journey that not only tests your cycling prowess but also allows you to appreciate the cultural and historical richness of the region. .


Accommodation: 3-Star Hotel

Meals: Breakfast | Dinner

3 SERINA - COLICO

99,7km | 2,031m | 2,731m | 5,45h

The second day of the journey is the longest stage, covering 100 km and taking us to the highest point, nearly reaching the 2000 meters of the historic Passo San Marco. This ascent is one of the many hidden gems of this trip. We start from the hotel, and there are 5 kilometers of uphill to retrace the final part of stage 1, returning to Dossena before descending to San Pellegrino (yes, the one famous for its mineral water). We resume on the secure and scenic cycle path along the old railway. We proceed through picturesque galleries and spectacular canyons along the Brembo River, ascending the waters up to Olmo, where the 20 km climb to Passo San Marco begins. It's an old road built in the 17th century to facilitate the trade of goods between the Republic of Venice and the Swiss cantons. Following in the footsteps of those ancient trade routes, we tackle this fascinating alpine-style ascent with very challenging gradients and 15 hairpin turns, marked by signs placed along the roadside. At the summit, we reach an altitude of 1990 meters, and if the ascent is long, the descent is even more thrilling: 26 endless kilometers descending towards the ancient imperial city of Morbegno. We reach the Adda River, which flows into Lake Como. All we have to do is follow the safe and peaceful cycle path along the river, descending gently to Colico, where we will finally rest by the lakeside .

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Accommodation: 3-star hotel

Meals: Breakfast | Dinner

4 COLICO LOOP

90,2km | 2,419m | 2432m | 5,20h

This stage holds a special place in my heart. We kick off from Colico, heading south for a flat 10 km before embarking on the extensive and undulating ascent of Valvarrone: a rugged 18 km stretch with challenging terrain. Cycling into the valley, we'll traverse a couple of ancient mountain villages, encountering scarcely anyone along the way. Upon reaching the summit, a rapid downhill awaits before tackling the 9 steep kilometers leading to one of the highlights of the journey: Passo Esine Lario. This pass treats us to a breathtaking 360° panorama overlooking the lake from the top. One of my favorite aspects is the exceptionally long descent to Varenna: a thrilling 18 km descent that feels like a direct plunge into the lake. Once upon a time, Varenna was a small fishing village characterized by old houses painted in picturesque pastel colors. Now, it stands as one of the most sought-after tourist destinations on the lake, thanks to its elegant hotels and numerous cafes. The village is so small that the best way to visit is by arriving in the center via ferry, and of course, by bike, enjoying the splendid view of the long descent from the hills down to the waterfront. There is no better place to stop for a coffee and savor what life by the lake could have been like until just a few years ago. After coffee, there are only 18 kilometers of a wonderful lakeside road that takes us back to our hotel.


Accommodation: 3-Star Hotel

Meals: Breakfast | Dinner

5 COLICO - SAN FEDELE INTELVI

88,2km | 2,315m | 1,802m | 5,05h

Today's stage is 90 km long with over 2300 meters of elevation gain, and if we carefully examine the altitude profile, things get even more serious: the first 40 kilometers are mostly flat. From Colico to Menaggio, we'll be cycling along the lakeshore, covering 40 fast kilometers where we can enjoy open spaces and be amazed by how the alpine peaks rise from the blue waters to over 3000 meters of the nearby summits that touch the azure skies. These initial 40 kilometers are not too complicated and end in Menaggio; from there, we begin to climb. First, there are easy 5 kilometers on another cycle path converted from an old railway line that connected Lugano in Switzerland with Lake Como, and then another 10 kilometers that are more challenging, leading us to make a loop through the semi-abandoned villages of the mysterious Val Cavargna, which during the smuggling era was one of the most active centers in illegal activities. After completing the Cavargna, we'll descend rapidly to Porlezza on Lake Ceresio, the last town before the Swiss border. We will pedal eastward, skirting for a few kilometers until Osteno, this other border lake, a small jewel where the wooded slopes of the mountains are reflected on the water's surface. From the small village of Osteno, we will climb steadily for 10 kilometers, with some peaks in double digits, up to San Fedele Intelvi, where the end of this stage awaits us.

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Accommodation: 3-star hotel

Meals: Breakfast | Dinner at Osteria

6 SAN FEDELE - BELLAGIO

87.9km | 1,837m | 2,412m | 5,10h

Val Intelvi is indeed one of those places that appears to have experienced a brief encounter with tourism, leaving behind a tranquil and picturesque valley nestled between the mountains and lakes, serving as the boundary between Switzerland and Italy. The well-maintained and nearly traffic-free roads contribute to the serene ambiance of the region. These mountains, while now offering a peaceful landscape, were once the stage for intense illegal activities carried out by smugglers. With limited opportunities for regular employment, smuggling became a livelihood necessity for some.

Before bidding farewell to the valley, the route takes a climactic ascent to Sighignola at the Balcone d'Italia viewpoint. This 5.3-kilometer climb is rewarded with a breathtaking 360-degree panoramic view over Lake Lugano and the Swiss Alps. The stunning scenery from this vantage point leaves a lasting impression. Descending back to Lanzo, the path meanders from the valley toward Lake Como. Another easy end with a smooth descent before returning to the road that skirts the lake, the famous and majestic Strada Regina. Winding through what were once fishing villages, it overlooks the lake and opulent villas. In Menaggio a picturesque ferry-boat awaits to carry us to Bellagio: it’s a ride on the blue waters and permits us to enjoys a different sight of the Lago di Como.


Accommodation: 3-Star Hotel

Meals: Breakfast  

7 BELLAGIO - COMO

74,7km | 2,305m | 2,370m | 5,10h

From our hotel in the charming Bellagio, we begin our route on the historic and iconic route of perhaps the two most famous climbs in the history of the Giro di Lombardia: Ghisallo and the infamous Muro di Sormano. Ghisallo is a 12 km climb divided into two sectors. In fact, at kilometer 8.7, the road descends for a kilometer before ascending again with very harsh hairpins. At the summit, you'll find the old chapel. The devotion that arose from cyclists and enthusiasts towards their patroness sparked a competition to bring offerings and memorabilia to the small church. Soon, it was filled with various votive objects, torches, banners, trophies, and bicycles. Today, the church is a pilgrimage destination for many believers and numerous cycling enthusiasts who come to pay homage from all over the world. Next to the old chapel, there is another mythical place in our sport: The Cycling Museum, one of the most unique and iconic spots. There is just one spot in the world where you can see bicycles that have been used by Bartali, Coppi, and Merckx in their Tour de France victories, the special bike used by Moser for his game-changer hour record, and several maglie rosa, maillot jaune, and rainbow jerseys. After the break here comes the ascent of the Muro di Sormano and its 2.8 kilometers at an 18% gradient. It's a fitting way to bid farewell – you will remember us, or at least your legs will feel the pain for a long time. A tricky and very twisty descent back on the shore of the lake and another 20 km rolling back to Como, but our pain is not over yet. As this is the Grand Final our final battle is on the brutal Brunate Climb before ending our ride and our journey in Como city center.


Accommodation: 4-star hotel

Meals: Breakfast

8 FAREWELL AND DEPARTURE DAY

Last Breakfast with a view to the marvellous sight in front of us: you will embrace all the mountain peaks, the green valleys and blue water which have been the backfround the our cycling journey.

Drop of the bikes and farewell to next time.


Arrival details

  • Airport City: Milano Mxp / Bergamo
  • Pick-up location: Bergamo
  • Pick-up time: 14:00

Departure details

  • Airport City: Milano Mxp / Bergamo
  • Drop-off location: Como
  • Drop-off time: 10:00
The Classic climbs series
Your Journey on a map

TOUR ROUTE

Start: Bergamo

End: Como

Services

Accommodation

2 nights at four-star; 5 nights at three-star

All breakfasts; 5 dinners

8/7 days/nights

Your stay, part of the tale

Handpicked hotels

Our itineraries around Como Lake go deeper, avoiding the crowds and scoping out off-the-beaten-path places that allow travelers to fully immerse themselves in the beauty and culture of the region. In the main towns, Bergamo, at the beginning, and Como, at the end, it was easy to find some 4-star; while our route is deliberating making stopovers in small towns to permit our guests to stay and see a different side of Lago di Como, at the these destinations we found some cozy 3-stas hotels.

Food

All breakfasts; 5 dinners - 1 lunch during rides

Immerse yourself in the region's culture

Eat Pasta Ride Fasta

While Lombardy is predominantly recognized as Milan, a global hub for finance and fashion, the region, in truth, has deep-rooted agricultural origins.

Northern Lombardy boasts some of the highest European mountains, shaping a distinctive mountain economy. Hard mountain work requires hard eating: simple yet flavorful recipes with a high caloric content. Poor recipes, but rich taste.

One wonderful example is Pizzoccheri: a traditional flat buckwheat pasta cooked with potatoes, cabbage, and layered with cheese and garlic-infused butter. And what about Risotto and Polenta? Once working class food, nowadays a delicacy. Lombardy is also renowned for its cheeses, such as Gorgonzola and Taleggio, which find their way into many dishes. 

Indulging in rich dishes on our active trip is guilt-free, justified by the effort we put into every pedal stroke.

Our best picks for this tour

As we have one of the largest and best bike fleets in Italy, we are proud to give our guests the freedom to choose the bike that suits them best.

Pinarello F5 - 105 di2

Ride in Italy on an exclusive Italian bike
Scott Addict RC40

Scott Addict RC40

Light, fast, and ready to turn heads.

Scott Addict 30

Designed from the ground up with those longer days in mind.

Canyon Pathlite:on

Do it all E-Bike for leisure and exploration.
Things You Won't Miss
  • Giro di Lombardia

    Il Lombardia

    The Classic of dead leaves
  • PASSO AGUEGLIO

    PASSO AGUEGLIO

    This pass treats us to a breathtaking 360° panorama overlooking the lake from the top
  • Passo San Marco

  • Bellagio, the jet set's retreat

    No, it's not in Las Vegas, but along Como lake!
  • Varenna

    Varenna

    Postcard from Como lake
  • A different side of Lago di Como

    Enjoy a less glamorous and quieter Como Lake
  • Ghisallo Cycling museum

    Ghisallo Cycling museum

    All about bikes and great cyclists in the history,
    in one spot
  • valvarrone

    rugged 18 km stretch with challenging terrain
  • BERGAMO

Ride Highlights:
Il Giro di Lombardia

Milan Sanremo, Tour de Flanders, Paris-Roubaix, Liege and Il Lombardia. This is our favorite nursery rhyme. Il Lombardia is one of the five Monument Classics, “The Fallen Leaves Classic” since it happens in Fall. For us it is the hardest of the classics, with its almost 4000 metres climbing. This is the classic for a true climbing lover, those we call 'salitomani' (roughly 'climbing addicted'). The Classic race alternates between starting and finishing in Como and Bergamo.

Tour highlights

Tour price

And inclusions

THIS TOUR IS AVAILABLE AS A GUIDED GROUP TOUR ON SELECTED DATES. it's also available as PRIVATE, SELF-GUIDED AND SUPPORTED ON ANY DATE DURING THE CYCLING SEASON.

Guided group tour

Guided group tour

02 May 2025

€ 2699


Inclusions & details

Accommodation
2 nights 4-star hotel, 5 nights in 3-star hotel
Meals
All breakfasts, 5 dinners, 1 lunch
Support level
Guiding, detailed briefing and van assistance, luggage transportation;
Not included
Flights tickets, extras in hotel, drinks during the dinner, city tax (if any), travel insurance, arrival and departure transfer, bike rental, luggage transport.
On request
Bike rental, group transfer on arrival/departure of the travel
Self guided tour

Self guided tour

From € 1499

Anytime Apr to Sept


Inclusions & details

Accommodation
2 nights in 4-star hotel, 5 nights in 3-star hotel
Meals
All breakfasts, 4 dinners, 1 lunch
Support level
Support level: detailed briefing, telephone assistance;
Not included
Flights tickets, extras in hotel, drinks during the dinner, city tax (if any), travel insurance, arrival and departure transfer, bike rental, luggage transport.
On request
Bike rental, luggage transfer
Supported tour

Supported tour

From € 2099

Anytime Apr to Sept


Inclusions & details

Accommodation
2 nights in 4-star hotel, 5 nights in 3-star hotel
Meals
All breakfasts, 5 dinners, 1 lunch
Support level
Detailed briefing and van assistance, luggage transportation;
Not included
Flights tickets, extras in hotel, drinks during the dinner, city tax (if any), travel insurance, arrival and departure transfer, bike rental
On request
Bike rental, group transfer on arrival/departure of the travel
Useful Information

Tips & Resources

Travel arrangements

Travelers on guided, self-guided, or supported trips have to independently reach Bergamo. Landing in Bergamo would be the best choice, as it is a well connected hub with several daily flights to and from the major airports all over Europe/UK. The hotel in town is reachable by bus or taxi in about 15 minutes.

Milan Malpensa (Mxp) and Milano Linate Airports are also good choices for arrivals and departure. Both airports are well connected to Bergamo and Como with regional trains.

Should you like a more comfortable way to reach Bergamo or travel back to your arrival airport, we can anyway arrange private transfers to/from beginning/end of the cycling travel.

The journey concludes in Como, the town is connected to Bergamo and Milano via regional trains and the trip takes 30 minutes.

Food & Drinks during stages

Lake Como  is among the major tourist destinations in North of Italy.

The hospitality of the people is renowned. Along the routes, you pass through lively small villages where it's easy to find a bar, whether for a coffee or a more complete lunch.

Along the journey, there are plenty of opportunities to recharge e-bike batteries in case of an emergency.

Necessary Gear

Our guests will get a pre tour info kit that gives useful suggestions on how to enjoy our trips in full. Here is a quick selection that might be useful at this stage.

  • We suggest renting a bike with us. But feel free to bring your own bike. Just consider bringing along a selection of model specific spare parts (ie. derailleur hangers). 

  • Some of the hotels have a room for the bikes, or, in any case, room to accommodate the bikes overnight. 

  • Bring along a wide selection of clothes, including some full arm jackets, rain coat, leg and arm warmers, overshoes: it's the Alps and the weather is never completely predictable.

Useful Information
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